Big Foamy Blue

After two weeks in the water, I met my match with Big Blue.

Balanced on my belly, pulling up my sagging bikini bottoms, I saw it rolling in from behind. The ominous dark blue water slowly lifted out of the ocean and formed a beautifully even curl. It was almost as if an invisible ice cream scooper cut into the ocean to serve it in rations. Some surfers braved the wave while others fell behind and to wait for the next one. I watched in awe as these wet suited-wonders skated across the 6 foot wave. And then it came crashing. I squinted into the sun and waited for the white water the tumble my way. The shear force of the rolling water is enough to drag me and Big Blue to shore. I want to look back, but I would loose my balance. I didn't know when the water would hit. I tried to trust my hearing, a rush of static noise approached. The water was being pulled out from under me as I grasped the sides of my board. Pressing my weight onto the center with my hands, I was floating on a foaming cloud. I stood facing a crowded beach. I owned this wave. It was mine.

A feat I would want to repeat as many times as possible. Suddenly all the Beach Boys songs make sense. Everyday that I am not at the beach, I stop and wonder why. I need a bumper sticker that says, "I'd rather be surfing". That is until the novelty wears off... one day at a time.